Arusha Project

This past Wednesday was the Craft Fair, a big party that the Arusha Project puts on during every volunteer program. The Craft Fair was created so that our patrner organizations can get together and not only be introduced to each other and create partnerships but also so that they can display their crafts from income generating projects. The party starts at 3 pm and goes allnight. We invite the neighboorhood kids and our friends from the area for the entertainment provided by local artists including Warriors from the East, Acrobats for change and the African Traditional Dance group.

Group photo... Craft fair atendees (volunteers, artists, friends, ect)

The Warriors from the East (with Volunteer Daniel on the guitar)

Wadogo Fire, prbably some of the most talented artists in Arusha (and they not even old enough to drive)

Was it cold out there? Well, yeah, sort of—but not the coldest I have ever been. We were a ragtag team of little engines that could with our rented gear, borrowed and used clothing, and absolutely no training at all. If anything attests to the amateur nature of our trip, the fact that we planned it a week in advance should.

Despite what seemed like an obvious recipe for disaster our “I think I can “ attitudes paired with our sheer happy-go-lucky-ness dragged us to reach the ultimate goal-Uhuru Peak- or for those of you with no Swahili, Freedom Peak. The reward a beautiful sunrise, huge muscle aches, for some a headache like a hangover, and we all got a golden ticket! It is something I will never forget and an accomplishment to always be proud of.

We started our journey on Sunday (Max and I just after returning from a 4 day Safari, and Tim halting work on AIDS education and presentations). Our travels to Moshi were easy enough and we arrived at Mauly Tours to find the building closed and locked. No problems for our fearless travelers- we simply enlisted the help of the locals and found that even though it was a holiday someone would come to open the office for us. That someone was a man named Genesis. What better way to start a journey then with a man named Genesis? He assisted us with planning our route, finding our gear, sending Max and Tim back to Arusha and taking us to the hotel. While Tim and Max went home to Arusha I held down the fort, room 3C, and made friends with the bartender, Lucky—see, good omens all around. Max and time returned later that evening and after an excellent night’s sleep (Tim woke at 5 am because he was anxious) we were on our way. We met our guide Robert and our team Jerome (asst. guide), Diplo (cook), Jomo (waiter), and Hansi, Simon, Rashidi, Micahel, Nelly and Jumo (our porters….I remembered all their names woot!)We left that morning full of optimism, stocked with chocolate, and ready for adventure- we headed for the Machame Gate.

The Machame gate as our guide explained to us is the whiskey route of the mountain. It is a more difficult hike but because of all the ups and downs in the elevation climbers usually get acclimated more easily and therefore have better success at reaching the summit. After the porters had weighed our gear and began ahead of us…we waited at the gate playing cards. We signed the registry to make sure we didn’t get misplaced along the way and FINALLY when it was time to go, we began our ascent. The first day our trip was spent in the rainforest. The shades of green and the mist in the trees that surrounded us was peaceful and exciting. We were three children on their first day of school, filled with anticipation and curiosity; we stopped frequently to ask questions. Why are the clouds so low? What kind of tree is this? Are there leopards here? When will get to the summit? It was a beautiful, muddy and slow climb to first camp. When we finally reached our camp we had a wonderful view of the Western Bridge. We enjoyed Kilimanjaro beer with our dinner. This journey would not be complete without enjoying a Kili beer on Kili mountain.

The two boys had a tent to share affectionately called the gas chamber, and the lone female was left to her peace in a separate tent. We dined like kings that night and went to bed early anxious for the next day to begin. The second day we were in the morelands and headed for Shira Peak Camp. The moorlands know for their ghostly trees and everlasting flowers are the third highest zone on the mountain. Our lunches along the way were packed in the morning for us and we ate them either along the trail or at a small lunch site. I over came my fear of peeing in the open, I abandoned toilet paper and made sure that I was as low maintenance as possible. Temperatures were cold in the morning but the skies cleared and the sun came out later in the day. We made it to Shira camp with no problems and after a short rest we went out to explore the area with Robert. Shira Camp is home to a small area of grasslands where it is possible to go on Safari if you choose. The Peaks in the distance are jagged against the billowy clouds and Robert was kind enough to show us how things used to be while climbing Kili. There are caves at Shira camp and if you were a lucky porter you got to stay in one of them. By lucky I mean sleeping with 40 other men, stinking, tired, and sore in a small cave no higher then 4 feet tall. We began the short hike back to our camp to have tea and dinner and then off to sleep. Typical Americans.

Day three began and it was cold. We were icy from sleeping through a small rainstorm and after an amazing breakfast of porridge, tea, eggs, veggies, and hotdogs we were on our way. On today’s schedule was lava tower. As a volcano (either active or inactive the poll is still out) Kilimanjaro is home to amazing rock formations left from the combination of lava flows and wind power. Starting at 3900m Lava Tower rises to an elevation of 4600m. Our day began with a three hours trek through the moorlands and after a short break for lunch our amazing daredevil crew decided it was time for a little rock climbing adventure. The rocks were steep and there were no spotters to help but when given the opportunity to climb higher, one must take it. When we reached the top of lava tower, no casualties had happened and celebration pictures ensued. Reaching our maximum elevation of 4600m, watching other teams pass us with their marching band style approach, we began to descend to finish the two hours hike down to our camp at 3850m. On our descent to camp we began to see the Giant Sinesea flower/tree/plants. Ranging from 4-12ft tall we paused to catch our breath near them. We took some photos and compared them to Pokemon characters. Our camp that night was in the clouds and with small glances of the western bridge looming over we could feel that were almost there and yet we knew that the most difficult part was still to come. We went to sleep, it was cold, we were in the clouds and so the haze only lent to the darkness. We slept with ravens stalking our leftovers in the misty dark going hungry “Nevermore”. Tim began feeling the effects of a headache most likely brought on by altitude sickness but after a mixed chlorophyll drink and so Dimox he began to feel better. Clouds were frozen to our tents in the morning and after finding our ascent route over the Baraka Wall we timidly began. The wall was a direct ascent for 500m straight up a rocky terrain. Ever impressed with the porter’s strength, resilience, and apparent relations to mountain goats… we thought if they can do it carrying 45 kilos surely we can do it alone.

Our day 4 ascent was tricky and cold in the shadow of the mountain but we reached the top of the wall to find we only had two hours to go…. until lunch. We then descended a ways and then ascended again, only to find ourselves descending in to another valley and finally stopping for lunch a top another ascent. We were behind so slower climbers at this point and our hunger and frustration were adding up. Everyone was feeling much better knowing that many of the climbers would be left behind at our lunch camp as we continued hiking for another 4 hours until we reach Barafu Camp- otherwise know as Ice camp, at the base of the summit circle. We strapped on our hiking gear after lunch of chips kuku (chicken and fries) we made another descent into the lava flows of the great Kilimanjaro. We found some slate and took time out to do some quick shot games learn some IMPORTANT Swahili from Robert. The day was getting longer and warmer as being above the clouds tends to increase your chances of sunburn and dehydration. We pressed on only 4 more hours to Barafu, yes that is right about 8-9 hours of hiking today. By the time we reached Barafu camp we had time to get settled in our tents, change into warmer gear, and watch the sun set. The sunset was a wonderful blend of pinks and oranges dancing in the cotton candy clouds. We had a wonderful view of the mountain in Arusha, Mt. Meru, and the watching the colors of the sunset almost brought me to tears. We finished dinner as the temperature continued to drop (they don’t call it ice camp for no reason) and after dinner we went straight to bed. We were to begin our summit climb at midnight.

Midnight came much too quickly for me. Luckily I was already dressed in order to sleep I had to put on all my clothes. After an energy snack of chocolate and tea we began our climb into the night. The sky was clear and the night was mild. We could see billions of stars; more stars than anywhere for there were no lights or clouds to get on our way. The night was beautiful. We began our ascent to the summit only focusing on the feet in front of us not realizing how steep we were climbing. All of our light came from our headlamps. I was fortunate to have mine quit about two hours in to the climb. The ascent to the summit was a never ending pathway of soldiers marching with their own motivation, their own light, and their own inner conversations to ensure that they continued onward and upward the 70 degree incline (at least) of sheer faced frozen rock. As we continued marching on in the night seemingly never nearing our goal, my legs got tired, Tim’s head hurt, Max’s situational questions lingered in the air unanswered. Robert kept going pole pole (slowly) the African way. You learned a lot about yourself on the way up. I was reduced to the high school version of myself always pushing myself to the limit is soccer practice. Knowing that no matter how hard I kicked myself I could always get up. There were times when I almost gave up too. I cried, I threw my pole… it was really upsetting me that morning, and then I kept going. Tim and Max had headaches to make Jack Daniels jealous. Then out of nowhere we made it to the first real rest we had all night at 5:45am we reached the top of the climb, . The sun began to rise and although my heart was set on watching the sunrise over Kilimanjaro we still had to make it to the very top, another 45 minute hike away. Now to all of you out there who may be thinking that a 45 minute hike may not be that far… let’s keep in mind that we are tired, exhausted, dehydrated, delirious, and just plain at the last our wits. Nevertheless our attitudes kept us going and although I was a little behind the boys we all made it to UHURU PEAK by 6:35 am. The sunrise at the peak was gorgeous. Sandwiched between to oceans of clouds the most beautiful sun was filling the sky and land with light. The most beautiful early morning light you have ever seen, untouched by pollution, tall buildings and other man made creations.

Little did we know at that point that we also had to get down the mountain. Personally I was spent. My body was intoxicated with lactic acid and although my brain was functioning well… my feet and legs would not listen to it. My journey down the mountain was as simple as being dragged down a sandy slope by Jerome our assistant guide until we reached about 2000m from camp and I was rested enough to continue to walk the rest of the way. Max and Tim both ran/fell ahead of me trying to get back to camp as quickly as possible. Their heads were not feeling well, and sleep was the only much needed remedy for all of us. Unfortunately our day had only just begun. After a two hour nap and a nutritious meal we were on the road again. We had to hike to the next camp a 5 hour trek through extreme mud, blinding cloud cover and mind altering exhaustion. At least we were going downhill. We were back in the moorlands by the end of the day and after dinner we all turned it. The mud was inches thick but surprisingly was the most comfortable bed we had had all week. I slept from 8:30pm until 7 am then next morning at wake up call, through the rain and the wild dogs. My body was grateful for the rest.

The next morning was our last day of hiking… to say the least we were ready to go home. We were ready for beds with warm blankets, hot showers, and food that could be eaten and enjoyed not just used for energy. We took photos of our last day, our crew and our guide and began our final descent off the mountain. The rain had proved an equal opponent and made the path a complete mud bath. Mud that in some places went up to our ankles… or knees depending on how lightly you stepped slowed our journey down to the gate. What was supposed to be a two hour journey turned into a 5 hour precision work out. Muscles that were already sore groaned from the concentration and intensity. Max and Tim raced ahead; I was too tired, or too intelligent not to torture my body further. We reached the gate around 11:30 and proceeded to go to the registration to get our golden tickets. “I got a golden ticket” played on in our heads as we drove back to Moshi to unload or gear, say goodbye to our new friends, and finally get a bus back to Arusha. After a two hours bus ride mostly passed by napping and minor conversations with our neighbors we arrived in Arusha. We returned home to an empty house… and proceeded to take showers. I realized in the shower that I was in fact a real girl. We ate like no tomorrow, and then after a day’s rest decided to share our photos and story with the group. We three had accomplished what very few do, we climbed the 4^th highest mountain in the world, we conquered our inner ghosts, pushed through an extreme challenge and we will always have the memories.

At the end of my fifth week in Tanzania, I finally decided to go on a weekend long excursion into Maasai Land. I was afraid I was going to get separation anxiety leaving our house in Kwa Idd, since I was the only volunteer who had not left the house to go to Zanzibar, safari, or Kilimanjaro, but it turned out to be even better than I expected.

Our first day started on Saturday. Shannon and I met our guide and cook in Arusha town, and after waiting for one hour for the dala dala to fill up, then we were on our way to Monduli chini. From Monduli chini, we took a truck up to Monduli Juu, which was fun because I got to stand up in the back, as we made our way into the hills. Our first stop in Monduli Juu was to see the spiritual healer. We went into the healer’s home, where he explained the tools he uses and the various reasons for people to visit his home. Then we went down to the market area, and since it was market day, we were able to walk around a real Maasai market. The rest of our day was pretty much spent walking to our next destination- Eluwai. Eluwai was the village that we were going to live in for the next 3 days. We walked for what was supposed to only be 2 hours, but ended up being about 3-4 hours to get to the village. The walk was long and hot, but with the beautiful scenery and long conversations, time passed quickly. When we finally got to Eluwai, we found that our long trek through the hills was definitely worth it. Eluwai was positioned on top of a hill so the view was amazing. By now it was time to eat dinner and settle into our boma (hut/house). We enjoyed a delicious dinner that our cook prepared for us and then Shannon and I went to our boma to get an early night’s rest. Our boma was a mzungu boma, which meant it was built for tourism purposes, so there were several beds available. However, since it was cold outside and neither of us brought a sleeping bag, we ended up sharing one bed, one blanket, and our body heat.

The second day in Eluwai was eventful. We first walked with the medicine man, learning about all the different vegetation and their medicinal purposes. Then we walked about an hour and a half to Oropul, the designated place for animal sacrifices. Usually, only men are allowed at Oropul, but for tourist purposes women are allowed to watch the sacrifice. The Maasai believe that if a woman sees a man eat meat, it will make him weak. The men simply prepare the meat first, and then bring it home for the women to eat. The Maasai men from Eluwai, with the help of our cook, our guide, and Shannon, ended up sacrificing and skinning the goat. To kill the goat one of the guys put his knee on the goat’s neck and covered its mouth and nostrils so it could not breath, suffocating it to death. Then it took some time to skin the goat. Shannon helped out, while I took pictures, always staying at least an arm’s distance away. Then the Maasai men started opening up the goat, which was pretty bloody. Once in a while one of them would start eating different parts of the goat, like its feet. Being a vegetarian, I definitely had no desire to eat any part of the animal, but watching was truly interesting. After a while I went to the part of Oropul where the men go to eat and relax, and I ended up dozing off for a short nap. After the men and Shannon finished eating their meat, we took some time to take silly pictures, the Maasai warriors had a fun time dressing Shannon and I up in their clothes. They also performed some of their traditional dancing and singing which consisted of jumping up and down and a lot of feet stomping. After spending our whole afternoon at Oropul- eating, talking, and relaxing, we headed back to the village. After dinner, we had what they call a Maasai disco. Then men jump up and down while everyone is singing. Then the women get to choose who they want to spend the night with by dancing towards them. Shannon and I of course could not bounce up and down the way the women are supposed to, but we had fun trying.

On our third day we started our trek back to Monduli Juu. But first we played with the children and the baby goats. I also somewhat successfully milked a goat and cow as well. Our first stop on our way back to Monduli Juu was to speak with the women at their women’s center. These were women who decided to no longer practice female genital mutilation. They are living together, raising sheep and doing bead work, in order to raise money, since they no longer receive money from initiation ceremonies. Shannon and I had fun buying jewellery from the women and talking to them about FGM and midwifery. We also sang and danced for a bit with the women which is always fun. After spending time with the women, we headed to Noonkidin Secondary School. The school serves as a normal private school for kids in the Monduli Juu area, as well as for girls who run away from forced marriages or FGM. For only being 3 years old, the school has come a long way. However, besides the limited funds and resources, the biggest obstacle for the school seems to be its very limited water supply. Since it is the dry season right now, the school struggles to find water. The students sometimes have to travel far distances to get water from a dirty lake.

My three days spent in Eluwai with the Maasai is definitely one of the main highlights of my trip to Tanzania. I was able to learn a lot during those three days, but it was also a chance to relax in a very remote and serene part of Tanzania. I have so much respect for the Maasai, especially the women, and I think the culture is so beautiful.

It has been exactly 5 weeks since I first arrived in Arusha and I can honestly say that it has been one of the greatest experiences of my life. I have grown to love the people, the culture and the lifestyle of Tanzania. The people are always friendly here, greeting you as you pass on the streets. Children are always swarming around you wanting to hold you hand and hang on to you with smiles on their faces. I would also like to say that Valerie is one of the most wonderful people/friends that I have ever meet and the work she has put into the program in the past several years and will continue to do so in simply amazing. Thank you for allowing me to be a part of the program these past few weeks!

Aside from the many fun and exciting excursions that were planned for us including a day safari (on my Birthday!), bautiful waterfall hikes, club nights, craft fairs and other “suprises”, I have found great satisfation volunteering at different orphanages teaching english and math skills to preschool children, assisting doctors in hospitals, preforming manula labor for a women’s groups “veggie” project, and teaching about HIV/AIDS, nutritoion and human anatomy at various high schools, church groups and other organizations.

Out of all the volunteering experiences I had during my breif stay here, teaching about HIV/AIDS has been

Steve, Brandon, Stephanie, Nema and Ben out in Meserani after giving a presentation on HIV/AIDS

the most fulfilling. Realizing the lack of education in this feild for many people here, I had great pride in during these short presentations on even the most basic information. Using posters to talk about statistics, biology, transmission, prevention, stages and stigma of HIV/AIDS. We were amazed at the questions we received from adults and youth and we can only imagine the kind of impact this had on the community. Everyone also got a kick out of the condom demonstrations.

Although it is impossible to write about all the amazing adventures that I have been through in the past 5 weeks, I would like to say that I will never forget coming here, and I hope to be able to come back and volunteer again in the future.

– Brandon

We had an Arusha Project first this week. Three volunteers took an extra week in country to climb Mt. Kilimanjaro, Gretchen, Max and Tim. It took them 6 days to go up and down on the Machame route.

A detailed post about the experience will be posted soon.

Tim, Max, Gretchen and their guides at the top of Kilimanjaro

July 24th

Today me and 3 other volunteers Ben, Tim, and Melody went on home visits with Tamiha. The home visits involved traipsing through the mud for 7 hours. I clearly didn’t bring the right shoes for that. My tennis shoes have very little traction which meant I was sliding around all day. At the end we went to Moddy’s house,  our guide who works for Tamiha, were Stella, his wife, invited us in for lunch. Then we trekked back down and went to the school for orphans Tamiha runs to talk to Crisspin, the director.

July 28^th

Today Ben and I did an HIV presentation at a vocational school for Tamiha. They have no sex education or anything in their schools here so they are eager for information. There are so many misconceptions here because of the lack of good information. We were doing the presentation in a place called Usa River where 18% of the inhabitants are HIV infected. We’re doing more presentations later in the week.

July 29th

We were supposed to take 3 kids to the clinic today, 2 to get HIV tested and one to get a CD4 count. 2 of the kids couldn’t come because someone the mother knew passed away so they were busy. So me and 2 girls from the Green foundation took the other boy, James, to get his CD4 count. It’s sad, he’s 15 but he can be easily mistaken for much younger and he’s really weak so we had to take breaks while walking. Unfortunately when we got to the clinic they told us they couldn’t see him until he got a referral from the place where he had already been treated. Hopefully he’ll be able to get that and we can take him on Friday.

July 31st

I worked from the house today so I could use the computer. I proofread a bunch of English stuff for Crispin to fix the spelling and grammatical errors so he can send out donation letters to vitamin companies and can do grant proposals to try and get money for his organization.